Maintain contact at the joints without forcing. Caulk this space after the siding is installed. All joints must fall over studs and be nailed on both top and bottom on each side of the joint. Stagger succeeding joints for best appearance. The second and all succeeding courses of siding must overlap the previous course a minimum of 1 inch.
Nail through both courses and into the framing members. Install shim strips for continuous horizontal support behind siding wherever it is notched out above or below openings. Factory-primed siding should be painted within 60 days after installation. If it is exposed for a longer period, lightly sand the primer, or reprime the siding with a good-quality exterior primer that is compatible with the final finish coat.
Unprimed siding should be finished within 30 days after installation. If the finish will be paint, prime the siding with a good-quality compatible exterior primer. Cedar Shingle Coverage Coverage1 of One Square at Exposure, inches 1 Length, in 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 16 80 — — — — 18 72 90 — — — 24 — — 80 93 Coverage given in square feet. Do not use electroplated, galvanized, or bright nails.
The area factors in the table below simplify estimation of the board footage of siding needed for the various patterns and sizes shown. Simply multiply the length and width of the area to be covered, times the appropriate area factor.
All nails must be aluminum, stainless steel, or hot-dipped galvanized. To minimize problems, install siding after it has dried thoroughly and its moisture content has equilibrated with the air. Tint None No Metal. Prohibited where above-counter mounting is possible 5 7. Receptacle required within 24" 8. SS S F Dedicated branch circuit serves bathroom only. Compute the heating, ventilating, and air- conditioning HVAC load, which is the larger of 65 percent of central electric heating not including electric baseboards or percent of air conditioning AC.
List and total the other loads: baseboard or radiant electric heating, general lighting at 3 watts per square foot, small appliance circuits at 1, watts each, and the other remaining major appliances. Find the required service entrance amperage by dividing total derated load by volts.
The example below demonstrates the method for a typical electrically heated house. Appliance wattages are always listed on the equipment nameplate, which is usually found on the back or the bottom of the appliance.
Alternatively, use the figures from the table on the facing page. Ampacity Because all wire has electrical resistance, the flow of electrons current generates heat and raises the temperature of the conductor, posing a fire danger. The code specifies the number of conductors allowed on the basis of box volume. By conductor, the code means anything that occupies an equivalent volume.
If not, compute the volume from the inside dimensions. Box extensions and covers having volume add to the total volume. The table below lists the conductor capacities of most available boxes. The more difficult part will be in fitting batt insulation around the cable and boxes.
Any size cable may run through holes in framing members. Cables larger than gauge may be stapled to joist bottoms. Across joists ok only if attic inaccessible. EMT is the easiest to use and the most common.
All conduit comes in straight foot lengths and must be connected using only fittings appropriate for the application. Fittings see the top illustration on the facing page are designed for either dry inside locations or wet outside locations. Outside fittings may be used either inside or outside. Bending EMT Always use a conduit bender specifically designed for the size conduit being installed.
The bottom illustration on the facing page shows the operation of bending conduit: 1. Measure the desired finished distance of the bend. This is usually the distance to a wall. Wires are pulled though the conduit one section at a time, using a special pulling wire. For other sizes, see the markings on the conduit bender.
And it produces zero carbon dioxide! Many scientists—even those working for utility companies—believe electricity generated from the sun will someday become our major source of energy.
The next 12 pages provide the information required to evaluate the practicality of solar electricity for your home. The total radiation received during a day thus depends on both the horizontal direction azimuth and the tilt altitude of the collector. Annual Insolation The amount of daily solar radiation received at a location depends not only on latitude but also on cloudiness. The table on the facing page lists the values for of the locations.
Paul 4. Solar photovoltaic panels are sensitive to even small degrees of shading, so trees, nearby buildings, even chimneys and roof vent pipes can decrease output. For this reason it is important to survey the monthly paths of the sun from the location of the panels. Professionals use equipment that costs hundreds to several thousand dollars to assess the shading through the year. These devices speed the analysis, but the same results can be obtained with simpler, less expensive tools.
These are: 1 either a Theodolite app or a simple protractor and weight on a string, and 2 a sun chart pp. Snap a series of screen shots and transcribe the outlines of shading objects onto the chart at a later time. To find azimuth, find true north-south as described on p.
The string will cross the protractor at the azimuth reading. Take as many readings as you need to plot the outlines of all obstructing objects, as shown in the charts on the facing page. All systems utilize at least some of the basic elements shown in the illustration and described below. Small systems are connected in parallel, resulting in 12VDC output. Power Watts flowing through a conductor equals current Amps times voltage Volts.
Doubling voltage doubles the power carried by the conductor without increasing its size. Panel arrays are most often mounted on roofs because they are shaded less, occupy no space, and generally look better. As seen in the table on p.
Surge Arrestor Wiring high on a roof invites lightning strikes. The surge from a strike could wipe out all of the electronics in the system. Surge arrestors shunt the extreme currents safely to ground to protect the rest of the system. Charge Controller Batteries require regulation of charging voltage and current.
If your battery is used only for the occasional power outage, go with automotive batteries. Inverters may produce square waves, modified sine waves, or pure sine waves. Square-wave inverters are small, cigarette-lighter devices. Modified sine wave inverters are economical and will operate most household devices, but pure sine wave inverters duplicate utility power and are the most efficient.
Utility Switch This is a utility-supplied box that allows excess solar-generated power to flow back into the utility system and reduce your bill. AC Load Center This is the common circuit breaker box everyone is familiar with. PVWatts is suitable for preliminary studies of a photovoltaic system that uses crystalline silicon or thin film photovoltaic modules. The calculations necessarily do not account for every system factor. Before committing to a project you should work with a qualified professional using more detailed engineering design and financial analysis tools.
Follow the data inputs on the facing page. We begin with the System Loss Breakdown: Soiling Depending on location and panel accessibility, soiling dust, salt, etc. Shading This is the critical factor discussed on p. Snow In Maine, snow is inevitable.
Mismatch This refers to the panel manufacturing precision. Wiring Electrical resistance in the system conductors results in voltage and therefore power loss. The loss depends on both conductor sizes and lengths.
Connections Unless perfectly executed and protected from weather, electrical connections corrode and increase in resistance. The default value is 0. The default value is 1. Nameplate Rating This acknowledges that the real-world output is probably slightly less than the output tested under ideal laboratory conditions. Aging Most PV panels are warranted for 25 years, However, everything degrades over time.
Availability While the system is being worked on, the output is unavailable. Estimated System Losses Total system losses are calculated not as the sum of the percentages above, but as 1.
Pick the largest, 4kW. Module Type Modules are: standard crystalline silicon, premium crystalline silicon, or thin film. Standard is the most cost-effective. Array Type Panels may be fixed or tracking. Fixed are the most cost-effective. Collector Tilt As shown on p. Azimuth Angle As also shown on p. Ground Coverage Ratio This applies only to tracking systems. Leave at the default value, 0. System Type The choices are residential or commercial.
Our example is residential. Cost of Electricity This can be found from your monthly electric bill, or use the value for your state shown in the table below. Results PVWatts returns the estimated annual average solar radiation 4. If this preliminary analysis shows your site has solar potential, get professional analyses and estimates from one or more certified solar installers.
Average Residential Rates Nov. Carolina Dakota As an aid to both planning and shopping, we offer a comprehensive listing of the R-values of insulation products as well as their performance characteristics.
Insulation is just one component of a floor, wall, or ceiling. To compute the total thermal resistance of a construction we need to include R-values of surfaces and air spaces, as well as R-values of building materials. Unfortunately, the total R-value of a floor, wall, or ceiling is not the simple sum of component R-values, so we explain and give examples of the methods for calculating effective R-values.
And because this is a handbook, we offer an extensive catalog of the effective R-values of typical constructions. Radiation Radiation is the transfer of energy through space. Radio waves, cellphone signals, warming rays from the sun, and heat felt from a fire—all are examples of the very same thing: electromagnetic radiation. The only difference is the wavelengths of the radiation.
While not intuitive to anyone but a physicist, all matter in the universe continually and simultaneously emits and absorbs radiation. Putting this into perspective, matter having twice the surface temperature emits 16 times as much radiation. The woodstove in the top illustration on the facing page is warmer than the surrounding room surfaces, so there is a net transfer of heat by radiation from the stove to the room.
At the same time, room air in contact with the cold window gives up some of its heat, contracts, and falls to the floor. The convection loop is continuous, resulting in a net transfer of heat from the stove to the window. Conduction Conduction is the transfer of heat through solids.
The frying pan handle in the bottom illustration on the facing page provides a familiar example. The handle is not in the flame, yet it becomes warm. The molecules of the metal pan and handle are jostling each other and passing vibrational energy down the line to their cooler neighbors. Since the intensity of vibration is greatest in the area heated by the flame, the net transfer of energy is from that area toward the handle.
Materials that transfer heat readily are known as conductors; materials that resist the transfer of heat are insulators. The insulation products sold at home centers and lumberyards, such as fiberglass, cellulose, and the various types of foam, are especially good at resisting heat flow by conduction. Heat transfer by conduction through homogeneous solid materials is simple to calculate, as shown in the illustration below.
The Conduction Equation and R Convection Convection is the mass movement of atoms and molecules in a liquid or a gas.
Wind, the uprush of a thunderhead, the circulation of tea leaves in a cup of tea, and the warm air rising from a woodstove are examples of convection. In moving from a warmer area to a cooler area, the molecules comprising the mass transfer heat energy in the direction of the motion.
The middle illustration on the facing page shows a wood- or coal stove in a room in winter. Room air in contact with the stove is heated and expands. R-value 0. R-value 2 in. High-density underlay 1. Low-E 3.
Nothing could be more intuitive than a rate of heat transfer: Few building assemblies consist of a simple layering of uniform materials as in the example below.
Most floors, walls, and roofs contain framing. In calculating building heat loads, what we need is the average, or effective, R-value for the entire floor, wall, or roof.
Fortunately, the effective R-value of the combined parallel heat paths is fairly simple to calculate. The illustration below demonstrates the calculation of total R-value through a section of wall cavity filled with fiberglass insulation. Calculating the fractions of wall area occupied by framing, Ff, and by insulation, Fi 2. Multiplying each U-value by its corresponding area fraction and summing the products to get Ueff.
R fiberglass batt Floors, walls, and ceilings framed with steel are a different matter, however. The thermal conductivity of steel is much greater than that of framing lumber and insulation. In fact, the conductivity of carbon steel is about times that of softwoods and 1, times that of extruded polystyrene.
The illustration at the bottom of the page provides an example calculation. Effective R-value R 0. R 0. The Zip software draws upon a database of calculated effective R- and U-values of standard insulation options for roofs, attics, walls, and floors. These options and their R- and U-values are illustrated in the following illustrated table.
The table also contains effective R- and U-values for concrete masonry wall assemblies from the National Concrete Masonry Association. That is the number one question homeowners ask when considering investments to lower their heating and cooling bills. And that is the subject of this chapter.
To answer the question we need to begin at the beginning—Where to Insulate: the Thermal Envelope. Older basements sometimes pose special problems, so we include detailed drawings for retrofitting full basements. For each surface we show a number of building science—approved options, as well as the fuel- and location-dependent recommended R-values. Included surfaces are roofs, ceilings, exterior walls, foundation walls, floors, windows, and doors.
A useful analogy can be made between a coldclimate thermal envelope in winter and a hot air balloon. As shown in the illustration below, both contain a volume of warm air. Just as conduction through the fabric and airflow through the vent at the top of the balloon will allow hot air to escape, so will gaps in the thermal envelope. To be maximally effective, every surface comprising the thermal envelope must be insulated to the Rvalue appropriate to the climate.
What is the appropriate R-value? The rational answer is the R-value that results in minimum life-cycle cost LCC —the sum of the costs of heating and cooling losses through the insulated surface plus the initial cost of installing the insulation.
The building surfaces included are identified in the thermal envelope illustration on the facing page. In unfinished attic spaces, insulate between and over floor joists to seal off living spaces below. In finished attic rooms with or without dormers, insulate: 2A.
All exterior walls, including: 3A. Floors above unconditioned spaces, such as vented crawl spaces and unheated garages. Also insulate: 4A. Band joists. Where to Insulate: The Thermal Envelope Insulating Attics and Cathedral Ceilings and cathedral ceilings: within the attic or cathedral ceiling except in rare instances.
The insulation should have the R-value recommended in the tables on the facing page for the building location and energy sources. In areas of snow buildup Zones 5 and above , the construction should be such that ice dams do not occur.
There should be no air leaks from the conditioned space below. The six examples below and on pp. Four issues must be addressed when insulating attics 3.
The insulation should have the INC-recommended R-value s listed in the tables on p. The type s of insulation and vapor barriers should be such that condensation does not occur anywhere within the wall cavity or materials. The twelve examples shown below and detailed on pp. There should be no through-wall air leaks. Original sheathing Foil-taped joints Insulating Slab Foundations It was long believed that slabs lost little heat.
After all, the earth itself is a source of heat, and the temperature of the soil at depth is roughly the same as the average annual air temperature for the location. Both of these facts are true, but what was overlooked is the short circuit to the outside through the thermally conductive perimeter of the slab. Below and on the following pages are eight approaches to preventing slab heat loss. All use closedcell, waterproof extruded polystyrene with an R-value of 5 per in.
Vapor retarder Concrete-grade beam 4 rebar for crack control Rigid insulation slopes away from slab edge to protect against frost. Rigid foam insulation Vapor retarder Optional 4-in. Optional 2-in. Vapor retarder Optional 4-in. Rigid foam insulation Optional 4-in. Counter to intuition, however, warm humid summer air condenses moisture on the cooler building surfaces in the crawl space, leading to dry rot. It is now considered better to tightly seal the crawl space and install an effective moisture barrier over the soil.
Furthermore, vented crawl spaces must be insulated at the floor above, leaving pipes exposed to freezing. Rim joist Gaskets or caulking Protective coating Treated sill plate Termite shield Slope away from wall at 6 in. Low-permeability soil 6 in. Vapor retarder Granular backfill Filter fabric Coarse gravel 4-in. Low-permeability soil Batt insulation 6 in. Insulating Full Basements Full basements are popular in cold climates because they provide spaces for wiring, plumbing, heating equipment, and storage.
It is easy to believe that they lose little heat because the surrounding earth serves as a thermal mass, while the house above provides a steady source of heat. The IRC recommends basement wall or floor above insulation in all climate zones, as shown in the tables on p. The following six pages detail basement wall and floor insulation alternatives for new construction. Following these six, we detail four approaches to retrofitting insulation to existing homes.
Optional reinforcing 8 in. Gaskets or caulking Rim joist Pressure-treated sill plate Protective coating Caulking or gasket under sill Termite shield Slope away from wall at 6 in.
Gaskets or caulking Rim joist Treated sill plate Gasket under sill plate Protective coating Slope away from wall at 6 in. Termite shield Filled block cores or bond beam Low-permeability soil 6 in. Low-permeability soil Gasket under treated sill plate Optional reinforcing 6 in.
Wall-system top plate Insulation between studs 6 in. Pressure-treated woodframe foundation wall Vapor retarder Low-permeability soil Interior finish Coarse gravel backfill on lower half of wall 6-mil polyethylene membrane Pressure-treated plywood 4-in. Unfortunately, this is often not the case. Here, we offer four alternatives for both reducing heat loss and creating a drier basement space. The second and third solve a flooding problem at the same time as creating a more useful space below ground.
The fourth minimizes three problems: air leakage, heat loss, and summer humidity. Alternatives 2 through 4 also offer the chance to install wiring if you decide to turn the basement into habitable space.
Basement Retrofit Configurations Basement retrofit with foam foam wall wall and floor insulation Rubble Rubble wall wall retrofit with spray spray foam, foam, finished wall, wall, and interior interior drainage drainage Wet Wet basement retrofit with foam foam and interior interior drainage drainage Concrete w wall all retrofit with interior interior spray spr ay foam foam and finished w wall all Retrofitting Full Basements Basement Retrofit with Foam Wall and Floor Insulation Wall finish Vapor retarder Exterior siding Cavity insulation Finish floor Subfloor Wall sheathing Foam backer rod seals edges.
Rim joist Foil tape seals foam edge. Slope away from wall at 6 in. Rim joist Foil-faced foam firerated for interior use Slope away from wall at 6 in. Strapping screwed to concrete 8 in. Spray polyurethane foam. Fortunately, the techniques for air-sealing existing buildings are now well established. Using a graphic field guide to air leaks, we uncover and attack the problem areas from top to bottom: attic air leaks, basement air leaks, interior air leaks, and exterior air leaks.
Does your home have a masonry chimney Leak 3? If so, the fire code-required 2-in. The total area of air leaks in the average home is an incredible sq. You read that right, 2 sq. That is effectively the same as leaving a window sash open about a foot all winter long! The previous illustration was simplified, but now we are looking at a real house with real imperfections. The 39 identified air leaks are listed in the table on the facing page with their average measured areas.
Most homes have a vented clothes dryer Leak Is the damper on yours stuck open? If so, the table shows it is equivalent to a 4-sq. Ceiling Air Leak Area, sq. Patio sliding 1.
General, per sq. Dropped ceiling, per sq. Framing around chimney Sealed off 4. Whole-house fan, louvers closed Covered with weatherstripped box 5. Ceiling fixture, surface or sealed, recessed Recessed, not air-tight 6. Pipe or duct through ceiling Caulked at ceiling 0. Pipe or HVAC duct in wall cavity not shown 9. Recessed cabinet Electrical switch or receptacle With foam cover plate gasket 6 Magnetic seal 4 Weatherstripped -4 Storm door deduct for -3 0.
Double-hung 0. Horizontal slider 0. Awning 0. Casement 0. Fixed 0. Masonry wall not shown 0. Wood wall Caulked 0. Sill on masonry foundation 65 Range hood, damper open Caulked Clothes dryer, damper open 4 Damper closed 1 13 27 7 Pipe in wall 2 0. Polyethylene vapor retarder deduct for Extruded polystyrene sheathing deduct for Doors Bathroom, damper open Damper closed Fireplace, damper open 17 Weatherstripped 8 Insulated and weatherstripped cover 2 3 1 54 Average damper closed 9 Stove insert with cover plate 2 Heat and Hot Water Ducts in unheated space Joints caulked and taped Furnace, with retention head burner Attic fold down 0.
HVAC duct in wall Electrical switch or receptacle 3 Air-lock entry deduct for Box sill 6 0. Attic hatch 1 Interior Walls 7.
Pocket door Entrance 78 16 With stack damper With retention head and stack damper If you define an exterior door as one that separates the inside from the outside, then the panel is one because your attic is or should be ventilated and at outdoor temperature. Apply either V-strip or sponge rubber weatherstripping to the top of the scuttle casing, as shown in the illustration at right. What you have just done will pay for itself in just a few months, and it will last a lifetime.
Pull-Down Stairs Many homes have attic pull-down stairs instead of a hatch hole. These are large and notoriously leaky. You can purchase a kit for insulating and sealing the stair opening, or you can make your own, as shown. Attach the foam to the plywood with construction adhesive or long drywall screws.
Apply foam weatherstripping to the top edge of the framed box. According to the air-leak field guide on pp. Most often interior chimneys are enclosed within wood-framed walls. What you will discover if you look down around a chimney passing through the attic is a hollow passage connecting the basement and the attic. If it is winter, you will also feel a strong draft of warm air flowing up into the attic—a heat loss disaster!
The solution is to nail four strips of ga. Butt the metal strips up against the masonry and seal the joints with high-temperature caulk available at most home centers. What about stuffing the gap with unfaced fiberglass? The resin binding the glass fibers is flammable. Vent Pipes Plumbers are rarely finish carpenters. When they cut holes for pipes in wall framing they are interested in only one thing: a loose fit.
Therefore, when you find a vent pipe passing through the attic, you will generally find it coming through an oversized hole in the top plate of an interior wall. Worse yet, you may find it passing between a pair of interior walls with the space between the walls unsealed.
In the first case, the solution is to fill the space around the pipe with a generous application of latex foam. In the second case, seal the space between the two walls with strips of 6-in. Unlike the case of the chimney space, this flashing may be aluminum, which is easily cut with ordinary scissors or a utility knife. The cable will enter the attic through an oversized hole drilled through the top plate of a wall below.
To seal the oversized hole, remove the insulation if any covering the area, and fill around the hole with latex foam. Then replace the insulation. Where there is a ceiling fixture, you will find an electrical box.
This is usually a round or octagonal metal can fastened to a joist. They are full of holes and are surrounded by an oversized hole in the ceiling. Fill all holes and gaps with latex foam. If the box is the size of a large cylindrical coffee can and is attached to another box to one side, it is housing a recessed light. The code says there must be a 3-in. Unfortunately, there are only two effective solutions: 1 disconnect the fixture and seal the opening at ceiling level with a plastic sheet, or 2 replace the fixture with an expensive IC Insulation Contact fixture.
Rather than constructing interior walls with top and bottom plates connecting the tops and bottoms of studs and raising the wall into place, the interior walls were built in place with the tops of the studs nailed to ceiling joists or blocking installed between ceiling joists.
This type of construction leaves the stud cavities on the top floor open to the attic. Of course, these act as miniature chimneys venting warm air into the attic. Using your floor plan, locate the tops of the interior walls in the attic and remove any covering insulation.
Fill plastic grocery bags with pieces of unfaced fiberglass batt, seal the bags by tying the bag handles together, and stuff the bags into the tops of the stud cavities. The compressed fiberglass will serve to fill the cavity, and the plastic will stop air flow. Knee Walls If your house has top-floor rooms with knee walls short walls with crawl spaces behind them , the sloping ceilings, knee walls, and floors of the crawl spaces are all probably insulated with fiberglass or rockwool batts.
Since the floor under the room was inaccessible at the time of insulating, it was left uninsulated. Although that was standard practice when the house was built, we now realize air between the joists in the floor is warmed from above and below and flows out into the uninsulated and vented crawl space.
Essentially, the crawl space, if properly vented to the outside, is part of the outdoors. The solution, again, is filling plastic grocery bags with unfaced fiberglass batt, sealing the bags by tying the bag handles together, and stuffing the bags between the joists under the floor.
The bags will stop the warm air escaping into the unheated crawl space. As a result, the tops of foundation walls can be rather rough and uneven.
At best, it may have an ineffective and leaky strip of unfaced fiberglass. The solution is stuffing foam backer rod into the joint with a putty knife wherever possible, followed by cleaning the wood and concrete of dust and caulking the joint. Backer rod is used to back up the caulk used to seal joints in concrete block construction.
It can be found at most stores that sell masonry construction supplies. In addition, as you can see from the section view in the illustration at right, the rim joist offers little in the way of R-value. Fortunately, we can solve both problems with one application. Facing the foil side into the basement should satisfy local fire code regulations.
The name derives from the fact that the walls are framed with long studs extending unbroken from sill to rafters. Balloon framing was replaced by modern platform framing, due partly to the unavailability of long studs up to 24 ft. Slideshare uses cookies to improve functionality and performance, and to provide you with relevant advertising. If you continue browsing the site, you agree to the use of cookies on this website. See our User Agreement and Privacy Policy. See our Privacy Policy and User Agreement for details.
Published on Nov 1,. Building a home is a complicated, precise, and labor-intensive process. From drawing a design to selecting the site to laying the foundation, building the frame, installing the plumbing, wiring, HVAC, and everything in between, there are countless opportunities for something to go wrong.
Enter your mobile number or email address below and we'll send you a link to download the free Kindle App. Then you can start reading Kindle books on your smartphone, tablet, or computer - no Kindle device required.
To get the free app, enter your mobile phone number. Uh-oh, it looks like your Internet Explorer is out of date. For a better shopping experience, please upgrade now. About 40 percent of the content is new to this edition. Containing sources selected and annotated by a team of public and academic librarians, the works included have been chosen for value and expertise in specific subject areas. Design your own sustainable home Many people dream of building a beautiful, environmentally friendly home.
But until now there has been no systematic guide to help potential builders work through the complete process of imagining, planning, designing, and building their ideal, sustainable home. Essential Sustainable Home Design walks potential homebuilders through the process starting with key concepts, principles, and a project vision that will guide the house to completion.
Coverage includes: How to clarify your ideas and create a practical pathway to achieving your dream A criteria matrix to guide design, material, and systems decisions Creating a strong, integrated design team and working with professionals and code officials to keep the project on track from start to finish. Key building science concepts that make for a high-performance, durable building Primer on building logistics, material sourcing, and protocols to ensure that the initial vision for the project comes to fruition.
One-page summaries and ratings of popular sustainable building materials and system options. Ideal for owner-builders and sustainable building contractors working with clients aiming to design and build a sustainable home. Chris Magwood has designed and built some of the most innovative, sustainable buildings in North America, including the first off-grid, straw bale home in Ontario. The updated and highly illustrated guide to understanding how just about everything in your house works!
The revised and updated third edition of How Your House Works is a hands-on guide that gives you the low-down on why your faucet is leaking, your dishwasher is overflowing, or your furnace is on the fritz. This comprehensive book is your reference to virtually everything in your house with richly illustrated explanations of electrical systems, heating and air conditioning, plumbing, major household appliances, foundation, framing, doors, and windows.
This must-have book answers most questions homeowners face when repairs are needed or when a new house or addition is in your future. How Your House Works is filled with easy-to-understand illustrations that show how things should be put together and how they function. The book also highlights issues outside the house as well as clock thermostats, ventless gas heaters, moisture and mold, and passive solar heating. This invaluable guide: Offers a colorful resource to home electrical systems, HVAC, plumbing, major household appliances, foundation, framing, doors and windows, sustainability, and much more Includes easy-to-follow information for troubleshooting problems Contains dozens of new full-color illustrations Presents new chapters on solar power and smart home technologies Helps homeowners save money on many common household repairs Written for homeowners with little or no knowledge of home maintenance or repair, How Your House Works is your illustrated and updated guide to understanding how appliances, electrical, plumbing, heating, air conditioning, and more work!
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